Scopus İndeksli Yayınlar Koleksiyonu / Scopus Indexed Publications Collection

Permanent URI for this collectionhttps://hdl.handle.net/20.500.14365/3

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Citation - WoS: 1
Citation - Scopus: 1
Aesthetic and Cultural Approach To the Change in the Making Techniques of Karagoz Figures
(Istanbul Univ, Research Inst Turkology, Dept Art History, 2021-08-10) Öngen Corsini, Duygu Ebru; Corsini, Duygu Ebru Öngen
Karagoz developed as a unique culture in Anatolian lands. Despite many controversies about how Karagoz came into existence, there is a consensus that it emerged in the 16th century. Figures, as cultural objects, have production methods and techniques interwoven with the doctrines of the past. Today, figure-making for different purposes, inherited from the past, is present in Karagoz figure art. The aesthetic reflections, technique, and material harmony of the figures for show purposes must carry the cultural essence of Karagoz. This study examines museum collections and exhibitions, interviews with Karagoz masters, and a data analysis from an academic perspective. Considering these factors, it becomes clear that the training of masters for figure-making art is significant. Long-term training organized by institutions will contribute to this art and might be beneficial for good examples to reach the audience. Transferring the figures to future generations while preserving their cultural essence, making them in a suitable technique, and aesthetic understanding synthesized with modern techniques; will also contribute to the survival of this art.
Analyzing Sustainability in Fashion Through Bio-Synthetic Materials
(Firenze University Press, 2025-07-14) Vuruşkan, Arzu; Uslu, Filiz Özbengi
The environmental consequences of the fashion industry are undeniably severe and contribute to environmental pollution and degradation in many ways. While sustainability discussions are continuing, new material trends are emerging and the source, production process, and experience of these materials also affect the fashion industry. Synthetic biology is a promising tool combining bio-design and bioengineering. This new bio-synthetic approach offers an innovative path toward ethical and clean fashion production by transforming microbes or bacteria into “living factories” that produce sustainable materials. However, a broader evaluation is required to grasp the full potential and ethical challenges, especially regarding the commodification of living organisms for mass production. It is imperative that research be conducted to assess the environmental, social, and economic impacts of bio-synthetic materials, particularly in the context of the “living factories” concept. Considering the ethical risks of exploitative practices and the need for transparency, this study examines bio-synthetic applications in fashion, their impacts on sustainability, and their implications for planetary well-being. © 2025 Elsevier B.V., All rights reserved.
Citation - WoS: 1
Citation - Scopus: 3
An Approach To Develop Creativity by Understanding Structure in Fashion Design Education
(Ege Univ, 2017) Vuruşkan, Arzu; Burns, Angela
There are numerous approaches that can be considered for analysing structure in fashion design. In order to create something new, a move away from conventional generic shapes toward more interesting structures is a necessity. The purpose of this study was to investigate an approach to the design process that could facilitate the understanding of structure as a fundamental component of fashion design and support students' development in creativity with structurally interesting garments. By developing a concept based on nature using 2-dimensional visual source material, drawing, collage, and experimental research development in the form of a sketchbook, a group of students from Department of Fashion Design who joined the project, were encouraged to make a rational analysis of the structural elements at their disposal. By executing a series of exercises aimed at exploring structure, students were observed to make a gradual progression from 2-dimensional research through design development, to 3-dimensional garment construction. In conjunction with the idea of structurally interesting designs, fabric choices, pattern making and garment construction were also considered. Each step from 2-dimensional exercises to garment construction was recorded as visual and written documentation. Additionally, a questionnaire was developed to receive student opinions and feedback. As a result, configuration of the design exercises and the project setup has been identified as an encouraging approach both to develop students' understanding of structure in fashion design and for the development of creativity in 3-dimension.
Citation - Scopus: 2
Biobased Material Computation and Digital Fabrication for Bacterial Cellulose-Based Biofabrics
(Education and research in Computer Aided Architectural Design in Europe, 2023) Turhan, Gözde Damla; Çiçek, Selen; Özbengi Uslu, Filiz
The collaboration with biological organisms, biomaterial computation, and digital fabrication offers new possibilities for reconsidering the relationship between human and non-human living forms. These organisms allow for the creation of materials, design and manufacturing processes, and end products to become more closely aligned with natural systems and processes, as they are derived from renewable resources and have a lower environmental impact than synthetic materials. In this research, by focusing on nature and non-human living organisms, biobased material computation and digital fabrication were explored to develop biofabrics. This research offers a fully biodegradable process with zero waste and unlimited supply, enhanced with the resources provided by nature, including nature's design and manufacturing methods. To create this sustainable, circular cycle, one of the most abundant materials in the world, the purest form of cellulose, is produced by bacteria such as Acetobacter Xylinus (A. xylinus). In collaboration with A. xylinus, bacterial cellulose-based biofabrics were grown and harvested. The methodology was divided into four main stages: Digital fabrication of a customized fashion dummy which involves 3D modeling, laser-cutting, and assembly of a fashion dummy; a stochastic scaffold design for the bacterial cellulose biofilm layer; biobased material formulation for developing a biofabric; and bio-assembly. The outcome has been exhibited at Good Design İzmir 7, a national curated exhibition among the invited guests’ section, and had a chance to meet a larger audience to raise awareness. As a result, it was seen that incorporating biobased materials into the digital fabrication process has the potential to not only improve the performance and sustainability of materials but also to encourage designers to reconsider the relationship between humans and ecology. Future studies can include the scalability of such systems for broader design realms, such as biobased architectural solutions for buildings, especially lightweight structures, as well as industrial design products such as packaging. © 2023, Education and research in Computer Aided Architectural Design in Europe. All rights reserved.
Biobased Material Computation and Digital Fabrication for Bacterial Cellulose-Based Biofabrics
(Ecaade-education & research computer aided architectural design europe, 2023) Turhan, Gözde Damla; Çicek, Selen; Özbengi Uslu, Filiz; Uslu, Filiz Özbengi
The collaboration with biological organisms, biomaterial computation, and digital fabrication offers new possibilities for reconsidering the relationship between human and non-human living forms. These organisms allow for the creation of materials, design and manufacturing processes, and end products to become more closely aligned with natural systems and processes, as they are derived from renewable resources and have a lower environmental impact than synthetic materials. In this research, by focusing on nature and non-human living organisms, biobased material computation and digital fabrication were explored to develop biofabrics. This research offers a fully biodegradable process with zero waste and unlimited supply, enhanced with the resources provided by nature, including nature's design and manufacturing methods. To create this sustainable, circular cycle, one of the most abundant materials in the world, the purest form of cellulose, is produced by bacteria such as Acetobacter Xylinus (A. xylinus). In collaboration with A. xylinus, bacterial cellulose-based biofabrics were grown and harvested. The methodology was divided into four main stages: Digital fabrication of a customized fashion dummy which involves 3D modeling, laser-cutting, and assembly of a fashion dummy; a stochastic scaffold design for the bacterial cellulose biofilm layer; biobased material formulation for developing a biofabric; and bio-assembly. The outcome has been exhibited at Good Design Izmir 7, a national curated exhibition among the invited guests' section, and had a chance to meet a larger audience to raise awareness. As a result, it was seen that incorporating biobased materials into the digital fabrication process has the potential to not only improve the performance and sustainability of materials but also to encourage designers to reconsider the relationship between humans and ecology. Future studies can include the scalability of such systems for broader design realms, such as biobased architectural solutions for buildings, especially lightweight structures, as well as industrial design products such as packaging.
Charity in the Audience of John the Baptist
(Brill Academic Publishers, 2018) van Eck, Alexander
This article draws attention to the frequent presence of women with children among the audience of John the Baptist's sermon as it is depicted in sixteenth- and seventeenth century prints and paintings. Rather than as genre-like additions, it is argued that they were included as allegories of Charity. According to the gospel of Luke, John the Baptist advised those who had two coats to give away one, and people who had an abundance of food to share it with others. In other words, he exhorted people to be charitable. A literal visualization of one of the acts of charity in the Baptist's sermon is seen on a print published by Nicholas de Mathonniere, in which a man gives away a coat to another person in the audience (note 6). The allegorical approach was much more common though. Examples come from Germany, Italy and the Netherlands. In a woodcut by Cranach, three women in the audience are suckling babies (fig. 2); in a painting by Bacchiacca, a woman with three young children frollicking on her lap is positioned prominently in the foreground (note 4); similar groups are visible in Bloemaert's version of the subject in the Rijksmuseum (fig. 1), and in Philips Galle's engraving (fig. 3). A special case is Jacob Backer's Family group with John the Baptist preaching, as it includes a portrait of the mater familias with one bare breast (fig. 4). That again points to an allegorical interpretation, because such a display of nudity in a common portrait would have been deemed improper. Since it concerns a Mennonite family - the artist, who was a Mennonite preacher himself, included a self portrait with his finger raised in warning - this picture is also a reminder that the subject of the Sermon of John the Baptist was not a typical Calvinist subject referring to open air sermons ('hagepreken'), as is often assumed (note 16). In a country like the young Republic, the sermon was an important instrument for all denominations and a suitable subject for decoration on any wall.
Citation - WoS: 1
Citation - Scopus: 2
Comparison of Actual and Virtual Pressure of Athletic Clothing in Active Poses
(Emerald Group Publishing Ltd, 2024-09-25) Vuruşkan, Arzu; Ashdown, Susan P.
PurposeThe circular design process in contemporary fashion design, from two-dimensional (2D) sketching and pattern making to three-dimensional (3D) prototypes, can be facilitated by virtual prototyping. Virtual pressure representations on avatars provide visual and quantitative information regarding garment fit and comfort, which are particularly important for active wear. The purpose of this study is to investigate the benefits of using avatars in active poses from 3D body scans and the use of digital 3D tools for the design process and the prediction of fit of active wear.Design/methodology/approachThis research initially explores virtual fit of cycling wear in active poses and compares the actual pressure values from humans with virtual pressure maps on custom avatars made from body scans in cycling poses across a range of sizes.FindingsSimilar fit results were achieved visually in both the standing and cycling poses. However, the comparisons showed no correlation between the actual and virtual pressure data. Of the 32 cases representing different combinations of the parameters of this research (four sizes, two garment types, four active poses), the differences were significant. The results suggest that, rather than providing a direct correlation with pressure values on the body, the main value of avatar data is in providing comparative visual support for fit evaluation.Originality/valueThe approach taken in this research, which considers the active pose and the size range, potentially contributes to the improvement of virtual fit technology, and its more effective use in apparel product development and fit evaluation.
Citation - Scopus: 1
Customers' Perspectives on Fit and Customization of Cycling Sportswear: Cross-National Comparison
(Ege Univ, 2019-06-30) Vuruşkan, Arzu
Feedback on fit and customization from activewear users provide a valuable source for improvements in apparel products. This research aims to contribute to effective design and patternmaking for activewear apparel, with a focus on cycling clothing. Cycling is becoming more widespread, not only as a professional sport, but also for commuting and recreational activities. Within the context of this research, customer preferences for cycling clothing, fit and customization were compared across two countries. Two data collection methods; semi-structured interviews and questionnaires were employed, collecting both qualitative and quantitative data. Data from the interviews and questionnaires, conducted in the US and in Turkey, revealed similarities between the two environments in cycling habits, clothing preferences and fit satisfaction. This study is of value, providing an analysis of cycling clothing and fit issues through a cross-national comparison, and increasing understanding of cyclists' needs and desires for companies interested in international markets.
Citation - WoS: 7
Citation - Scopus: 8
Design Methodology and Performance Studies of a Flexible Electrotextile Surface
(Autex, 2015-09-01) Kayacan, Ozan; Kayacan, Ozlem; Bulgun, Ender; Eser, Burcin; Pamuk, Masuk
The smart textiles' concept has to develop products based not only on design, fashion and comfort but also in terms of functions. The novel electro-textiles in the market open up new trends in smart and interactive gadgets. 'Easy to care and durability' properties are among the most important features of these products. On the other hand, wearable electronic knitwear has been gaining the attention of both researchers and industrial sectors. Combining knitting technology with electronics may become a dominant trend in the future because of the wide application possibilities. This research is concerned primarily with the design methodology of knitted fabrics containing electrically conductive textiles and especially in-use performance studies. The structural characteristics of the fabrics have been evaluated to enhance the performance properties.
Citation - WoS: 1
Citation - Scopus: 3
Design of an Interactive Fashion Recommendation Platform With Intelligent Systems
(Inst natl cercetare-dezvoltare textile pielarie-bucuresti, 2024-04-30) Vuruşkan, Arzu; Demırkıran, Gokhan; Bulgun, Ender; İnce, Türker; Güzeliş, Cuneyt
Design platform intelligent systems With the increase in customer expectations in online fashion sales, greater integration of fashion recommender systems (RSs) allows more personalization. Design decisions rely on personal taste, as well as many other external influences, such as trends and social media, making it challenging to adapt intelligent systems for the fashion industry. Different methods for recommending personalized fashion items have been proposed, however, the literature still lacks an approach for recommending expert -suggested and personalized items. In this research, an interactive web -based platform is developed to support personalized fashion styling, focusing on users with diverse body shapes. To merge the user's taste and the expert's suggestion, the proposed methodology in this research combines genetic algorithms and machine learning techniques allowing the system to access expert knowledge (including external influences) and incremental learning capability, by adapting to the user preferences that unfold during interaction with the system.
Citation - WoS: 3
Citation - Scopus: 5
Designing a National Uniform(ity): the Culture of Sumerbank Within the Context of the Turkish Nation-State Project
(Oxford Univ Press, 2011-05-01) Himam, Dilek; Pasi̇n, Burkay
This article aims to re-define and re-conceptualize the concept of national uniform(ity) within the discursive framework of Turkish nation-state policies and display its concretization via the culture of the state textile factory Sumerbank, within the context of the Turkish nation-state project itself. On the basis of a comparative analysis of uniformity in the products of Sumerbank, we argue that the ideal of building a unified, collective and uniform(ed) nation-state can be identified at various levels. In the first section, the fundamental Kemalist reforms, policies, institutions and the way they affected the economic, social and cultural practices of Turkish modernization are examined. In the second section, the establishment of a Sumerbank culture peculiar to Turkish modernization and its contribution to the Kemalist ideal of creating a uniform(ed) Turkish citizen are treated. In the final section, the idea of uniformity is considered as expressed through body and space, both analogously functioning as a uniform. Accordingly, the authors provide a comparative analysis of uniform(ity) in the culture of Sumerbank based on disciplinary, conceptual and contextual scales as well as a critique of the Turkish modernization as a state-centred process, and Sumerbank culture as a problem field that exemplifies the local/global dichotomy of Turkish modernity.
Citation - WoS: 1
Citation - Scopus: 2
Exploring the Traditional Turkish Ucetek Entari of the Late Ottoman Era From the Izmir Ethnography Museum Collection
(ROUTLEDGE JOURNALS, TAYLOR & FRANCIS LTD, 2024-08-23) Aktaş, Ceren; Adanır, Elvan Özkavruk; Ozkavruk Adanir, Elvan
The ucetek entari, & uuml;& ccedil; etek or three-skirt robe, was the main element of traditional Turkish women's clothing, worn with a chemise and shalwar. The features of this special garment extend to the clothing culture of the ancestors of the Turks who lived in Eurasia. The structure of the ucetek entari is typical Ottoman attire, with a small standup collar, long sleeves open up to the elbows, high slits on each side of the skirt, and triangular pieces added for fullness. This research was conducted in the Izmir Ethnography Museum to analyze the fabrics, embroidery, and pattern-making techniques of the ucetek entari, along with their zero waste and multifunctional design approach. The main fabrics, linings, facings, their yarn count in the warp and weft directions, pattern dimensions, embroidery properties, other surface decorations, and technical drawings of the robes were photographed and examined in detail. The results revealed that ucetek entaris were daily or special occasion wear which were designed using mostly silk and cotton fabrics. The focus of this research is to analyze in depth the ucetek entaris in the Izmir Ethnography Museum.
Giorgio Armani Prive 2005-2025. Twenty Years of Haute Couture
(Routledge Journals, Taylor & Francis Ltd, 2026-02-03) Kipoz, Solen
Citation - WoS: 1
Half Scale Dress Forms From 3d Body Scans in Active Poses
(Springer International Publishing Ag, 2019-08-14) Vuruşkan, Arzu; Ashdown, Susan
Sport is highly competitive, and there is a continual search for ways to improve performance. A good fit and comfort provided by activewear will be factors in performance, but providing good fit for the active position is challenging. This exploratory research is focused on creating half scale forms in active poses to facilitate activewear design, pattern making and fit testing. Digital data obtained from 3D body scanning in the active pose was reconstructed to create a valid body form as the basis for producing precise half scale body forms.
The High Altar of the Archiepiscopal Cathedral of Mechelen: St Rumbold's Grand Reliquary and Tomb
(Stichting Nederlandse Kunsthistorische Publicaties, 2015) van Eck, Alexander
[Abstract Not Available]
Ideological Representation of Japanese School Uniforms Through the Case of Koushun Takami's Battle Royale
(Intellect Ltd, 2024-04-01) Bayar, Hazal; Kipoz, Solen
Despite school uniforms' historic role in the democratization and equity of different social classes, they have gradually become signified as the clothing of disciplined and institutionalized bodies, thus becoming the instrument of the ideological subordination of the individuals/bodies. Although being associated with an anti fashion attitude universally, school uniforms in Japan are incorporated into the elements of street style and thus, their meaning is transformed into a form of rebellion. In this transformation, Japanese cinema played a vital role, particularly after the 1990s. In this article, we aim to analyse the transmogrification of the 'high school girl movement' by examining Kinji Fukasaku's film adaptation of Koushun Takami's Battle Royale through a cross-disciplinary reading between fashion and film studies.
Citation - Scopus: 1
Integrating Light Elements in Fashion: Practice-Based Design Approach
(Chamber of Textile Engineers, 2023-06-30) Vuruşkan, Arzu; Bulgun, Ender; Tekcan, Elif
In history, the relationship between fashion and technology has influenced the ever-changing silhouettes of the body, the quality of materials used to construct these silhouettes, and the colors giving liveliness to the material. Today, influenced by the digital revolution and innovation in advanced materials, the fashion industry benefits from the increasing possibilities of technology to develop alternative functions even to the most conventional dress forms, such as wedding gowns. This integration, which necessitates the contribution of different know-how and expertise, also provides a creative platform for developing interdisciplinary, practice-based design research and applications. In this study, an innovative wedding dress using light as a design element was produced with the joint contribution of designers and engineers based in Izmir, considered the capital of bridalwear in Turkey. This project, which considers light as a new design element that increases the expressive power of the dress, aims to offer an alternative to both the wedding dress category and the existing examples incorporating light technologies. In accordance with the main framework, research questions, and project design concept, the study conducts a literature review examining current design examples using different light technologies (LED, optical fibers, etc.). Following this, the stages of design, sample development and production processes are presented with relevant visuals. It is believed that this study, whose research, design development, and production processes are shared in detail, will set an example for future interdisciplinary projects. © 2023, Tekstil ve Muhendis. All Rights Reserved.
Citation - WoS: 21
Citation - Scopus: 26
Intelligent fashion styling using genetic search and neural classification
(Emerald Group Publishing Ltd, 2015-04-20) Vuruşkan, Arzu; İnce, Türker; Bulgun, Ender; Guzelis, Cuneyt
Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to develop an intelligent system for fashion style selection for non-standard female body shapes. Design/methodology/approach - With the goal of creating natural aesthetic relationship between the body shape and the shape of clothing, garments designed for the upper and lower body are combined to fit different female body shapes, which are classified as V, A, H and O-shapes. The proposed intelligent system combines genetic algorithm (GA) with a neural network classifier, which is trained using the particle swarm optimization (PSO). The former, called genetic search, is used to find the optimal design parameters corresponding to a best fit for the desired target, while the task of the latter, called neural classification, is to evaluate fitness (goodness) of each evolved new fashion style. Findings - The experimental results are fashion styling recommendations for the four female body shapes, drawn from 260 possible combinations, based on variations from 15 attributes. These results are considered to be a strong indication of the potential benefits of the application of intelligent systems to fashion styling. Originality/value - The proposed intelligent system combines the effective searching capabilities of two approaches. The first approach uses the GA for identifying best fits to the target shape of the body in the solution space. The second is the PSO for finding optimal (with respect to training mean-squared error) weight and threshold parameters of the neural classifier, which is able to evaluate the fitness of successively evolved fashion styles.
Citation - Scopus: 2
İtfaiyeciler İçin Akıllı Bir Ceket Tasarımı
(Chamber of Textile Engineers, 2019-03-28) Dursun, Müge; Bulgun, Ender; Şenol, Yavuz; Akkan, Taner
İtfaiyeci koruyucu giysisi, genellikle koruyucu bir dış katman, nem bariyeri ve termal astarı içeren üç katmanlı kumaş yapısından oluşmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, termal ortamdaki itfaiyecileri korumak amacıyla tasarlanmış yenilikçi bir itfaiyeci koruyucu ceketi önerilmiştir. İlk olarak farklı üç katman kumaşların koruma performansları test edilmiş ve itfaiyeci koruyucu giysisi için en uygun kumaş kombinasyonu belirlenmiştir. Kumaş seçiminden sonra, en uygun kumaş kombinasyonu kullanılarak bir itfaiyeci ceketi tasarlanmış ve üretilmiştir. İlgili sensörlerle donatılmış özel olarak tasarlanmış bir elektronik sistem cekete entegre edilmiştir. Son olarak; entegre sensörlerle tasarlanmış itfaiyeci ceketi, ısıtılan bir etüv içerisinde test edilmiştir.
Citation - WoS: 4
Citation - Scopus: 6
Margaret of Parma's Gift of a Window To St John's in Gouda and the Art of the Early Counter-Reformation in the Low Countries
(Stichting Nederlandse Kunsthistorische Publicaties, 2012) van Eck, Alexander
[Abstract Not Available]

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Browsing Scopus İndeksli Yayınlar Koleksiyonu / Scopus Indexed Publications Collection by Department "İEÜ, Güzel Sanatlar ve Tasarım Fakültesi, Moda ve Tekstil Tasarımı Bölümü"